The valley is a very special place. Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley is home to four of the top five ag-producing counties in the state. While livestock and poultry production reign supreme, the agricultural landscape is as diverse as it is productive. I have admired the valley since I began my career in agriculture; however, during my VALOR class VII seminar, I gained a new perspective and a deeper appreciation for Virginia’s richest agricultural region and the farm families who both rely on and support it.
During our fourth seminar in the Shenandoah Valley, we were encouraged to explore the themes presented in the book, “Start With Why” by Simon Sinek. “And it’s those who start with why, that have the ability to inspire those around them or find others who inspire them.” As we explored various farming operations and interacted with members of the agriculture community, we identified a “why” from each host and/or farmer to acquire greater insight.
Jessica Hall is the owner and visionary of Harmony Harvest Farm, a cut flower farm located in Weyers Cave, Va. and one of our first visits during the seminar. On a tour led by Jessica, we traipsed alongside flowerbeds that at the time laid dormant but in a few short weeks would be overflowing with vibrant flowers. As Jessica shared the history of the operation, her “why” was apparent. It was clear that invigorating her family farmland and later, sharing her passion for locally grown flowers were her motivation.
Jessica’s journey to establish a flower farm that now grows over 200 varieties of flowers, ships nationwide and offers local agritourism experiences was far from linear. She shared the trials and tribulations that she experienced along the way. From purchasing the farm and learning quickly that she could not make ends meet growing small-scale produce, to the ideation of her flower farm and the learning curve that comes with embarking on a niche farming venture. Although Jessica studied horticulture in college, starting a flower farm was uncharted territory for a girl who grew up showing livestock at the county fair. Jessica says she could write a book on how not to run a flower farm, although in hindsight, each misstep was a learning lesson, informing the future success of Harmony Harvest Farm and allowing her to live out her “why.” Jessica’s tenacity and bravery is inspiring.
Another entrepreneur who shared a clear “why” was Jon Henry, proprietor of Jon Henry’s General Store, located in downtown New Market, Va. Jon shared his backstory, which is rather unique. Jon was raised on a family farm in Shenandoah County. He left the farm to attend NYU, where he studied upscale cuisine and fine dining. After a few years in New York City, he returned to the valley, obtained a master’s degree in art from JMU and opened a storefront to market his family’s seasonal produce and beef, among other primarily local products.
When asked whether Jon had taken any missteps that later resulted in a learning opportunity, he succinctly replied, “Vegan pepper jack cheese.” In an effort to keep his offerings fresh, Jon buys new products in limited quantity to determine if he has a market for them. Upon stocking his shelves with an assortment of vegan cheeses, he learned quickly there was no demand from his customers. When he could not sell the product, he gave the cheese to a local poultry farmer, who reported that even his chickens wouldn’t touch it.
Another lesson Jon learned was not to fret over negative reviews. A mentor told him, “You can’t please everyone.” Early on, negative reviews on social media or search engines would keep him up at night. Now, he takes them with a grain of salt and recognizes that despite your best effort, some folks will have a bad experience with your business, and all you can do is your best.
Jon takes a lot of pride in the business he has built. It’s clear that the general store is Jon’s creative outlet, and in addition to supporting the family farm and local producers, sharing his creativity with the community is his “why”.
Another local entrepreneur who is driven by a desire to share their creativity and bolster local agriculture is Bev Butterfield. Bev grew up on a dairy farm in Augusta County, Va. As a child, she was involved in gardening, preserving food and of course, a variety of farm chores. 4-H was her favorite social outlet, and through competing in food contests, sewing and fashion shows, she honed those skills. Bev turned those skills into a 30-year career with Virginia Cooperative Extension as a home economist.
Upon retirement, Bev reflected on what she enjoyed most about her career; Teaching classes and creating community topped the list. Her family encouraged her to start a business in which she could re-explore those pursuits (her “why”). Soon thereafter, they built a studio attached to the family home and Fieldsmith Home Art was incepted, a culinary school, which specializes in teaching the art of preparing healthy dishes using local agricultural products.
It’s not just the small businesses in the valley that are driven by their support of local agriculture and community. Houff Corporation opened its doors in 1975 on a family dairy farm, initially offering fertilizer locally. Over the years, the organization expanded its services to include seed solutions, crop and nutrient management, pesticides, ammonia control and more, as well as supply chain solutions, transloading and bio solids management.
General manager, Tim Grove, shared with our cohort that as the business grew, they never wanted to outgrow their ability to serve the valley. As a business scales, operating expenses increase and you have to target the “big fish” or larger deals to keep the lights on, but serving area farmers and servicing smaller, local accounts remains a priority, even if it limits the corporation’s opportunity for growth.
Another local business-owner, Sarah Cohen of Route 11 Potato Chips, shared the same sentiment. Sarah said, “We’re not trying to conquer the world.” At their small potato chip processing facility located in Mt. Jackson, Va., the business employs just 53 individuals to manage the processing of 25,000 lbs. potatoes per week. The business is at capacity, in regards to the labor and space necessary to meet current production needs, but Sarah has no interest in scaling up. She refuses to sacrifice quality for quantity or sever her local partnerships to compete with the national brands.
In an effort to support local producers, Sarah sources a million pounds of potatoes each year from Clifford Rohrer, a producer down the road. All of the sweet potatoes they process come from Bill Jardine of Quail Cove Organics, located on the eastern shore of Virginia. Sarah only sources elsewhere if she reaches the tail end of production in April and requires more spuds to fill orders. You might be wondering, “Aren’t there cheaper partnerships that Sarah could explore to increase her return?” Likely, yes; however, Sarah values finding the “highest margins with the lowest maintenance.” These partnerships have proven reliable, and they consistently meet her quality standards. The relationships Sarah has established with these producers date back many years. In addition to producing a top-notch product, Sarah takes pride in those relationships and supporting local producers, and therein lies Sarah’s “why”.
I have often wondered “why” farmers endure the long days, hard and often thankless, work that farming requires; not to mention thin profit margins. A common “why” in the agriculture community is legacy. Paula Craun offered an excellent example of this motivation, who we met during our visit to Hillview Farm, a robotic dairy operation located in Bridgewater, Va. Paula represents the fifth generation to manage the farm. Kevin Craun, who alongside his brother, represents the fourth generation at Hillview Farm, shared how family and the future of the farm has remained central to management decisions, including their recent investment in a new milking parlor and (3) robots. Conversely, some farmers, like Adam and Taylor Long of ATL Farms, are seeking to start a legacy from scratch. The brothers grew up farming alongside their parents, but left the family business to start their own custom planting and harvesting enterprise in 2018. They value the freedom in running the business their way.
After a couple of days exploring the “why” behind so many business-owners and farmers in the valley, I reflected on my own. I am energized and inspired by the agriculture industry and the families that support it. As a communicator, I get to share their stories. Furthermore, in a world where the average consumer is 3 to 4 generations removed from the farm, I play a small role in educating the public.
valeadersor.com 